Federico Orsi’s biodynamic farm is in a beautiful part of the Colli Bolognese (Bolognesi), just outside Bologna. These hills were known locally for producing great wines for many years, before the local grapes and this humble appellation fell out of favour with drinkers, leading to many leaving their farms to seek jobs in the city. This non-vintage wine is drawn from a big old concrete vat which contains a blend of Pignoletto, Alionza, Albana and Malvasia from different vineyards of various age, from every vintage back to 2010. The wines are made in different ways, in a variety of vessels. The majority of the blend is made up of wine from the most recent vintage and the vat is constantly being topped up with young wine to prevent oxidation. This is a great trattoria wine that while easy to drink, is anything but simple. While the younger wines are all fruit and flowers, there’s a salty, nutty backbone to this which makes for a wine of real intrigue.