It’s a deft skewer.
It takes understatement and gives it some character. It’s a nectarine-based wine threaded with brine, bran, chalk and anise. It feels quite incredibly pure. There’s a subtle milkiness to the texture; so subtle in fact that if it was a joke you wouldn’t get it until you were half-way home. Nothing about this wine is fruit-forward but it’s not mean about it; it’s like looking at velvet drapes just as they begin to draw open. It’s just beginning. The show’s about to start. Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front