2017 Olek Bondonio Barbaresco Roncagliette
There’s not many Barbarescos quite like these offerings from Bondonio, and while they speak of place, they have a kinship, perhaps, with the wines of Foillard for their wild and unfettered beauty, silty tannin, and distinct personality.
Less polish. More verity. This is perfumed and earthy, wild mint and aniseed, ripe cherry, damp earth and curry spices. Rich in tannin and tactile grip, freshness with ripe raspberry and strawberry, charisma and chunky length. It feels like vineyard to glass. It’s a wonderful expression of Nebbiolo. The words just tumbled out; it must be good. And it’s pretty good drinking now. Gary Walsh - The Wine Front