2017 François Rousset-Martin Sous-Roche Proffeseur
François Rousset is producing some of the most captivating wines in the Jura right now, of that there is no doubt.
The lieu-dit underneath the big rock of Château Chalon is the best known and most prestigious, and it's the source for the 2017 Côtes du Jura Savagnin Cuvée du Professeur Sous Roche. This Savagnin would have the right to be called Château Chalon if it was aged sous voile for six years, but because it matured in topped-up barrels for 14 to 16 months, it's a Côtes du Jura, a choice of Russet-Martin. Yields were catastrophically low in 2017, and there are only 1,500 btl of this (but there will be some 4,000 in 2018). It's a bit spicy, and I guess it must have had some traces of flor, which give it the Jura character. It matured in oak barrels from Burgundy, and it's faintly oxidative. Cuvée du Professeur makes reference to his father who still owns this vineyard.