2017 / 2019 LattaVINO Jurassique Blanc
Winemaker Owen Latta is one of the most exciting wine producers in Australia, and is unnervingly releasing hit after hit.
The wines are alt-expressions for the most part, but so easy to enjoy, which makes the chicanery in mind all the more present. That being said, he grows great grapes, or sources outstanding vineyards, uses a slow wine approach to raising these wines and judiciously applies his winemaking know-how. Here’s another belter. The irony is, many winemakers of a technocratic set would balk at the proposition – chardonnay, naturally fermented, no temperature control, intentionally ullaged over a period of 12 months… the maths shouldn’t work, but it does. A nod in the direction of Jura. The fruit is grown by young Latta at his uncle’s farm, close by the Eastern Peake home estate in Ballarat.
Outstanding wine for freshness, complexity, light savoury character, saline acidity, bold personality. It shows perfume of sea spray, faint grilled nuts, green apple, lemon blossom. The palate has some light concentration, a slick of fresh fruit character lightly seasoned with spice, nuttiness, more of the saline-mineral character. There’s no shyness of flavour here and yet it feels bright and vivacious. It stretches long, mouthwatering, beautiful. It shows shades of Jura but less pronounced, let’s call it more restrained. Fine wine in any language. Such delicious, unreal drinking. Mike Bennie - The Wine Front